Headed for the turn to Lake Eyre North and ABC Bay. Made turn about 12:30. Was a slow 66k to
shore. Lake was something to see but flies have been the worst. At least 200 all over my forearms
and face. Not a place to camp but the drive in through the black stone gibbers was something that
needs to be seen to understand. From satellite photograph the area looks like being scorched by a
bush fire. I wouldn't want to spend much time here. Returned to the track and headed for Williams
Creek, pop 10. Fueled up one tank and headed for the Neales River and the Algebuckina bridge. A
468 meter structure, want to get sunset pictures and camp there.
August 17
Got my pictures. There about 5:30 with plenty of time. Went to a bush camp away from the water. I
have a theory that flies are around water and cattle. They were still bad in the morning. Packed and
headed for Oodnadatta and the Pink Road house. Road is corrugated and rough but not to bad.
Made Oodnadatta by 12:30. Fueled up and took in atmosphere of this famous Road house. Headed
towards Dalhousie Springs and the Simpson desert. Road to Hamilton and turn off was fair to good.
Warning about road trains showed their signs in the corrugations. Road from Hamilton Station has not
seen maintenance for along time. Went to a gibber plain with rocks fist size and should have shaken
the fillings out of my teeth. Good thing I have a good dentist. One of the worst roads I have traveled
and it went on for 30k. Finally made Witjira NP and the road changed for the better. Still very rocky
but maintained and bare able. Made the Dalhousie ruins and took pictures. Made the camp grounds
10k further at about 5. Setup camp and went to Dalhousie Spring pool for pictures and sunset. Pool
is about 150 feet across and 400 feet long. Quite a site for such an aired area.
August 18
Well today it is off to Purnie Bore drilled by oil explores but hit almost boiling water instead. This is the
last water for 350k before Birdsville after crossing the Simpson Desert. I decided to take the French
Line straight across. The roughest with the most sand hill crossings. There are over 1100 parallel
sand hills in the Simpson Desert. I will only be crossing about 180. The French Line cuts straight
across perpendicular to the sand hills. Road was firm until the turn to the Rig line so let down air
pressure in tires to 23 lbs from 49 and put it into 4WD high range. Track was very bumpy like speed
bumps so could only travel in 2nd gear. Approach to the hills was easy but the eastern side was steep
and longer. Much more challenging for those coming from that direction. Made only 40k in 2 hours.
Decide to continue on until 5:30 to make camp. Pulled up about 5:45 and this is to late here in the
desert. Sand dunes block sun and it gets dark fast. Cooked in the dark. Trying to cook over camp
fire but wasn't hot enough so put up gas stove. Had a visitor after dark. About 15 feet from the dying
campfire a Dingo was wandering around. They have no fear of man. Even yelling and running at it, it
was not frightened. Just looked at me. It did get startled after I threw a rock at it. I just continued my
cooking and the next time I looked it was gone. Was tan and not red like others I have seen and when
the flash light hit it eyes they were turquoise to blue but shined right back at me. Kind of eerie but not
scary. I'm glad I sleep in the Troopy and not the ground where the Dingo could walk around me at
night. With that thought I wouldn't get much sleep.
August 19
More of the same from the French Line bulldozed in 1963 by the French Oil Company. Was originally
only for their exploration but 4X4 clubs and vehicles have kept it open. Very bumpy like speed bumps
one after another. Can only travel about 20k per hours in 2nd gear. Sand hills have not been a
problem until today. I came upon one about 4 with loose sand a little steeper then previous but
seemed straight forward. Took 5 attempts and made over only after deflating the tires to about 18lbs
and powering over it bouncing through the corrugations and holes dug by spinning tires as they go
over. Came to a 2nd dune similar but wasn't a problem. Only made 110k today. The remoteness is
something to be seen in this desert. Nothing as far as you can see except the track in either direction.
Lots of lizards scurrying off the track as I approach. Daises have gone to seed and there are yellow
and purple flowers scattered around. Ended up camping within view of a salt lake and another duneto
traverse tomorrow.
August 20
Heading for Poeppel Corner where South Australia, Queensland and Northern Territory meet.. Track
is getting better. Can get into 3 gear between sand hills. They are also farther apart. On the
eastern side of the sand hills you almost slide down. Need very little power to get to bottom. Some
are very rough , almost looks like the climbers don't have posi-traction so there are ruts bouncing you
from side to side. Might be their front wheel and the rear wheel on opposite side digging in. Had 2
hills that requires low range and had to power over the top. Reached Poeppel Corner around noon.
Reached the K1 Line less then 10k further and it was graded around the salt lake for 18k. Kind of
nice after all the hills. Then turned onto the QAA Line for the final run to Birdsville. This continues
eastward over the sand hills. Made the park boundary and the Rabbit fence at 4. The Rabbit fence
was an attempt to stop the migration of the rabbits into western Queensland built in 1890s for a
distance of 800k. It was maintained until 1932 with boundary rider every 80k clearing and maintaining
the fence. Within 20 years of 1932 much of it had been covered by drifting sand or washed away by
floods. I continued east straight over the sand hills. Eventually traveling through the Eyre Creek
flood plain. The area between the sand hills have coolabahs on black soil. Rough through the black
soil areas. Had to camp before making Big Red the 40 meter high sand hill that attempts to trap one
within the Simpson Desert. If Big Red is too much of a challenge I will go around on a lesser crossing.
August 21
Off to Birdsville today. Let air pressure down to 18lbs from 21 this morning in anticipation of Big Red.
Flies terrible, were bad last night too. They know I'm here and they are swarming around the windows.
I'm doomed! Attacked and Eaten by Flies. The only remains are my bleached bones lying on the
Simpson Desert just before Big Red and the flies swarming over their conquest. I escaped the flies
and made Big Red around 11:45 AM. Looked impressive from a distance but as I approached just
another sand hill. So I let the air down to 15lbs in the tires and tried what looked like the main track
over. Made it to about 25 feet from the top and lost power. Backed down and tried the track to the
right that went back to the main track. Made it to about 10 feet to the top and again ran out of power.
Didn't want to punish the Troopy because it has been so good to me so I back down again. The two
previous tries I had been in 2nd and 3rd gear shifting down. This time I took the further right approach
which looked easier but once moving it was much more corrugated again with depressions from right
to left by spinning wheels. I left it in 1st gear low range and bounce through these divots to reach an
area that I picked up speed that smoothed out (not many vehicles had made it this far) and didn't shift
but just kept the revs up around 4 grand and powered to the top and stopped. This was a much less
challenging track but I felt the Troopy just doesn't have the power unless you beat it up to get over
such a hill. Probably needs better gearing in the rear end. This hill is not the normal for what anyone
is doing. But would be a thrill to travel over the left most steepest track with the proper gearing and
power. I'm satisfied that I can say I crossed Big Red. Pictures are from the top of my crossing. Was
about 30k to Birdsville. Made it by 12:30. Fueled up and replenished water and air in tires. Then had
a shower and off to the Pub for a tall cool one. At about 2:30 headed down the Birdsville Tract to the
turn to the Simpson desert and the Warburton Track. At about 4:30 today I stopped and
photographed the Speedo as I passed the 200,000 km mark. Since May I have put on over 30,000
kilometers on this Toyota LandCruiser Troop Carrier. Something to be said for the engineering and
the Toyota corporation. Not a bit of major life threating problems, just minor maintenance. Thank you
Toyota you have made my dream come true. Made Warburton Creek at 5:30 and camped.
August 22
As I left camp to cross Warburton Creek I had to pass at least 10 vehicles towing caravans. After
crossing creek that had water in it I walked back to take Pictures. Track was graded and easy going
across the flood plain of the creek. Light sand and black soil plain and easy. As I came into the sand
hills they were easy going with drift sand only at the top for about 10 to 25 feet. After about 30k I was
in sand hills running between the hills when I came to an area of dead coolabahs. At a previous time
the water table or flood plain must have come between these hills. Coolabahs only grow where there
is seasonal water. Something has changed here. From here it was more sand hills the to the middle
of a salt lake and to travel about 20k to the north to get around it. After crossing a sand hill I though I
was rid of this salt lake only to find it on the other side for another 15k. After getting around this lake I
traveled south between the sand hills. Mostly easy going except for the washouts then west again
across the sand hills. This continued on and off until I headed north between the sand hills to the
Poolowanna Oil wells (abandoned in 1989).
August 23
Today it was to the Approdinna Attora Knolls. A pair of low flat top hills of white gypseous rock.
Formed by flour gypsum hardening to their present form. The Knolls road is very slow with a lot of
speed bumpy areas. The road run on the top of the sand hills, then on the sides and finally down the
valleys. This goes on for most of the 40k to the Approdinna Attora Knolls. Made the knolls about
11:10 and turned around to return back past last nights bush camp to the WAA Line and head west
across the sand hills to the Erabena track. Started on the WAA Line at 12:40. Was slow going, rough
like the French Line but the sand hills were no problem. Only needed to travel 31k to the Erabena
Track but took till 2:10. Mostly in 2nd gear. Turned south to the Rig Road. The Erabena track is
much better. Can get into 3rd gear and 2 wheel drive. Have to be careful of the washouts and the
corrugations. Made the Rig Road (12k) by 2:30 and on to the Lone Gum tree by 3. The Rig road has
washout trenches down the eastern side which I had to straddle when climbing the sand hills. Sand
hills were easy with only a few having loose sand at the top that were a potential problem. Eastern
approach is much steeper then the western but with the clay base easy to climb over. Road between
the hills was some what easy being able to travel in 3rd gear. Have only had to put it in 4 wheel drive
3 or 4 times in the loose sand. As I get further west there is less washouts and smaller hills. Camped
at 5 today. Pulled off between the sand hills and went about 800 feet over a small hill out of site of the
road.
August 24
Heading for Purnie Bore on the Rig Road then the French Line About 150K. Going to check out
shower facility there for a hot shower. Much the same as the last few days except easier going. The
clay base that was laid down when the track was made makes a big difference on the travel. If only
people would not try to traverse this area in the wet. They leave wheel ruts and the next storm that
deposits any amount of rain runs down the ruts making them impassable, so the next one through has
to go around these wash outs. Other then that it was easy. Between the sand hills I could get into 3
gear. Had the right rear post on the roof rack break right through the gusset put on in Warburton.
Did the old wire trick and it seems to be holding. When I reached the French Line for the 30k to
Purnie Bore I was able to be in 4th gear but had to watch the road carefully as the washouts would
sneak up on me. Made the bore about 3 and took a nice hot shower. Left around 3:30 knowing I
won't make Mt Dare today. Track improved the closer I got to Dalhousie Spring and my eventual camp
site. On the way cross Spring Creek Delta and I can see why it is called the Glue Pot. Just before
Dalhousie Springs I crested a hill and there in front of me jogging down the side of the road was this
Dingo. As I drove past only then did he pay any attention to me. I got some film pictures close up and
by the time I used the digital he was off the road heading bush. Got to Dalhousie Spring at 5:45. Not
only are the flies a pest but when they go away now the Mozzies are out. Sprayed up with repellent as
I was cooking dinner.
August 25
Woke up about 6 this morning but tried to go back to sleep. Temperature got me up about 8:30. Cab
heats very quickly in the morning. Lots of people still in camp. I heard some leaving as I woke up.
Maybe that is what woke me. Made Mt Dare about 11:30 and refueled one tank. I decided to have a
beer and got talking to the help. They were from Queensland traveling around Australia by working in
different places. Were a very interesting couple. Then a manager type came in and we started
talking so I had a 2nd beer. He had stories and his own adventures to relate. Finally pulled myself
away about 1:10 heading for Andado. Road was station track twisting and turning through a very
scenic forested area. Had to watch out for the washouts but very easy going and at times 80k. Then
it went into sand hills and then open flat plain country. Continued on to Old Andado station which went
from the flat plains back to the sand hills. Old Andado station has been run by Molly Clark now in her
80s since 1954. It is a bush camp site on the Old Andado track. She is not at the station currently but
campers are welcome to use the facility and pay via the honesty system. I took some pictures and it
just amazes me that an eighty year old woman by her self has maintained this station house and
surroundings. She is one tough old gal with my deepest respect. I pray that she will return to her life's
love. I continued north on the Old Andado track between sand hills. As time was getting on I wanted to
camp between the sand hills . Finally found a bush camp site around 5:30 and set up camp. Made
big camp fire which seemed to be hot. Nights are getting warmer and the need of a warm camp fire is
probably not needed.
August 26
Up again when the cab heats up to much. This morning it was about 8. Wind has been blowing during
the night and morning. This doesn't seem to keep the flies away, but not as bad. I guess I just need
to spend more time with them. Maybe get to know them better. If I only knew their names I could let
them know when their time was up. Especially when I'm driving and they are in my face. Had a visitor
last night. Probably a flea. I must have 10 to 20 bites on my legs so I pulled the sleeping bag out,
turned it inside out and cleaned it. I did the same with the swag and its mattress. Got under way
about 11:30. Track was good until you passed through a gate onto a station track and rocky area.
Then it got rough and some areas were bull dusty. This was when I turned west after the sand hills.
Eventually I reached Allambi Station where the track/road improved until the Catholic Mission of Santa
Teresa and the Aboriginal community. This has probably been the worst "road" I have traversed. It is
wide like outback roads but unmaintained. The rock are coming up through the solid under surface
and its like driving over corrugations but there is no pattern to the corrugations so no matter what
speed you do your fillings will likely fall out of your teeth. I am lucky I have a good dentist and my
fillings are still intact. This is a "road" I highly recommend by passing if possible. Unfortunately if you
want to travel the Old Andado track you must travel this section. Finally I met the bituman 11k from
Alice Springs. From Santa Teresa it was a gruelling 81K of rattle shaking, bull dust, corrugations,
bumps, dips and rock infested areas that is called a road. Made Alice at 3:45 and went to a motel to
book for when Glenda arrives. Then I went to a caravan park, Heavitree, and booked tonight. Went
back to Alice and Kmart to develop 19 rolls of film. Will be ready by noon tomorrow. Bought Cds to
backup photos and then back to caravan park after I splurged at Macdonald's.
August 27,
Went into town to do wash since I couldn't find a dryer at the caravan park. As I did wash I made
backups of photos and will mail home just in case the computer fails. Went to the info center to find
out about Argyle Diamond mine tours then I decided to go to the Lightning Ridge Opal shop since they
give a quickie course on opals. Talked to the sales clerk until the owner returned. He was coming
from Cobber Pedy and his other store and mine. He met me and was fascinated by my trip and
experiences. He invited me out for a drink later to find out more about where I have been and what I
have done. Before meeting up with Nick I booked another night at the caravan park. Met him about
7:30 in a local pub and we talked and yarned until almost 11. Nick started gouging for opals in
Lightning Ridge during the 60s and has made himself a successful business of selling them to the
tourist. He was a very interesting person and is fascinated by other peoples adventures. He wants to
keep in touch and for me to look him up when I travel through. Went to caravan park and camped.
August 28
Up late today. Very windy. Blowing dust around and smells like fresh rain but there is no water. Left
caravan park after 11 and went into Alice and did some supply shopping. Then I went by Nick's place
to say good bye. He asked me to bring Glenda by when she arrives. Left Alice about 2:30 for
Chambers Pillar. Track to road was fair to good. After leaving the rocky area and into the sand it
improved. Made Chambers Pillar about 5:35 and began to set up camp. Made fire and Ranger Rick
(no kidding) came by to invite me to a camp fire talk. I finished what I was doing and went over. Was a
very pleasant time spent by the 3 other couples, me and the ranger. He explained the geology of the
area and how it became what it is. The Aboriginal explanation of it and the fact that it is so unique that
it was used by both the Aboriginals and the first Europeans as a kind of sign post. After talk went back
to camp and cooked dinner on the camp fire.
August 29
Spent most of the time last night trying to recover from The Yahoo Site builder running out of memory.
I could not save all the work I had done Had to split the one page into two and move the text around.
Text moved OK but the pictures were lost from the 25 on. So much for computers. Had a little rain
last night and lightning. Only 2 or 3 rolls of thunder. Today is over cast and looks like rain. Walked
around Chambers Pillar and to the observation area. Back of mouth in nasal are is sore. Might be
catching a cold. Headed to Finke down the Old Ghan Railroad line. The track is on the railroad grade
for the most part. Slow to good going especially in the sand hill area. Made Finke at 4 and turned
toward Kulgera. Road rough but in places was pretty good. Took sunset pictures on my way. Was
dark when I reached Kulgera at 6:15 and the caravan park. Throat worse and now feel feverish.
August 30
I have caught a cold or something. Nose was runny to plugged last night and I feel very achy. I have
decided to return to Alice Springs 270k up the Stuart Highway. Try to get some medication or see a
physician. Don't seem to have a fever but I was sweating and achy all night. Made Alice at 1:30.
Went to Chemist but can't get antibiotic without prescription. Bought some over the counter night time
medication to see if that will help. Also purchased some cough drops. This feels similar to what I had
just before I left and that was a bronchial infection. Trying to avoid that. Went to post office and
mailed photos. Ordered back door parts from Toyota and took gas bottle to shop to be tested. Then
found a caravan park. Took medication and went to bed.
August 31
Feel better but still not 100%. Pulled every thing out of vehicle and rearranged for when Glenda
arrives. I have to find a place for all things that are on and in the passenger seat area. I thought this
would be a good time to decide what I bring home and what stays. Completed this around 5 so I
cleaned all the windows on the inside. Got all the wash ready for tomorrow and had dinner. Not many
pictures today.
September 1
Washed the sleeping bags and stored the swags in the canvas bag. Picked up parts from Toyota and
installed (latch on rear door is loose and snaps when body flexes). Picked up repaired gas bottle and
mailed some more things home.
September 2
Checked into motel and began upload of web pages.
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