Oz Traveler 2004
Updated October 18,
2004
By Brooks and Glenda Atchison
September 3, 2004
Finished cleaning and packing vehicle.  Picked up Glenda about 12:30 PM.  She was feeling pretty
good for all the flying.  Had dinner and decided to go to bed early at 7:30.

September 4,
Went to a doctor today at 10 AM and got a prescription for antibiotics.  Filled the prescription and
then went to see Nick.  He was home sick having what he called a well day.  He wants me to give him
what I have done so he can air it on his radio program from Melbourne.  So we decided to spend
another day around Alice.  Checked into a caravan park.  Not the quiet spot we expected.  A nearby
tavern had a band playing until after 1:00 AM.  Neither of us got much sleep, especially Glenda.

September 5,
Filled a 2nd prescription just in case and then to see Nick.  After introductions and writing down where
I have been Nick offered us a tour of his Coober Pedy Opal mine and to stay at his place there.  Left
Alice about 1:30 PM heading south.  Made Kulgera at 4 and camped in the caravan park.  Not feeling
100% so went to bed at 7:30.  Was dark anyway.  







September 6,
Glenda is up early and I'm sleeping till 8 or 9.  Got under way about 10.  Made Coober Pedy at
around 4.  Met Nick's manager Jean and she set us up his place.  Went to Faye's Underground home.
 She was the first female to come and stay at Coober Pedy.  She was eventually responsible for
making conditions better for the miners.  She started with a dug out for the mail man on his mail run
and developed it into a 3 bedroom home with an underground pool.  The home is open to tours daily
and should not be missed.  After the tour we went to dinner at a Greek restaurant.



















September 7,
Rained and blew last night.  There was 300 mm of rain and the tour was canceled because the
ground is to soft to get to the mine.  Was blowing and gusting most of the morning.  Went to some of
the free underground motels and checked on there mine tours.  Most were booked or were too late in
the afternoon.  Decided to get going and headed south in overcast and wind.  Had some rain on the
way.  Made Glendambo about 5 and set up camp with wind blowing in the caravan park.  








September 8,
Up and on our way about 8.  Headed for Goog's Track.  Went through Kingoonya.  Then to Tarcoola
and it started to pour.  Rained for about 20 minutes and I was getting worried that Goog's track would
be too wet to travel.  But cleared and ground seemed to be dry.  Continued on to Malbooma and
started down the track.  As we reached the dog fence it started to rain again.  Water was starting to
pool but track was solid so we continued.  As we got into the sand hills the rain stopped and the top of
the sand was wet but not very deep.  Some of the hills had dry sand up to 18 inches deep after the
wet crust was broken.  It took up to 4 tries to get over the ones with deep dry sand.  Left rear support
for the roof rack broke again so fence wired it together.  Track was through these soft sand hills until
reaching Yumbarra Conservation Reserve where the surface got harder.  Wanted to make Ceduna so
we pushed on.  Got to Ceduna about 6:30 only to go through a fruit and vegetable check point.  After
giving the inspector all the fruit and vegetables purchased in Coober Pedy I asked what the rules
were.  I explained we had just come in from Glendambo and the fruit and vegetables were purchased
in Coober Pedy.  After looking at the Troopy and mud he gave back the produce saying he thought
we had come from Western Australia.  It seems that each state has a restriction on the transport of
uncooked produce from one state to another.  They are trying to contain the fruit fly and other pest.  
Seems bureaucratic to me since the produce is commercially produced.  Found a caravan park
around 7 and setup the tent in the dark.









September 9,
Left Ceduna at 9:45 after driving around the bay and taking pictures.  Fields were very green and
rolling.  Seemed to be grains  At the Nullabor Roadhouse everything changes.   Only short bushes as
far as you can see.  Stopped at the Head of the Bight for whale watching.  Was bright and sunny and
there were a lot of whales.  After a while started to overcast and get windy.  Went off the main road to
the cliffs and took pictures.  At border was checked for fresh vegetables, fruit and honey.  We were
now entering Western Australia.  By this time we had cleared all the produce.  Continued to Eucla and
caravan park.  Was in a rocky area and it was windy and rained during the night.  Cold is still hanging
on.














September 10,
Fuel is getting expensive.  The prices seem to be based on the OPEC oil price increases and the war
in Iraq.  Diesel is now more expensive the unleaded.  Averaging around $1.25 a liter.  This is $0.15
cents above my budget plan.  Refueled in Caiguna and went on the Balladonia track.  Goal was the
Baxter Cliffs but got there at 5:45 and was too dark to see.  Was raining and wet on the way in so
decided to go the 70 or so kilometers to get out and not get rained in.  After stumbling around finally
found the main track again.  Was dryer then the track in but had some low areas that were collecting
water which were touchy to get through.  About 25k from the Nullabor highway came into an open
grass field area perfectly dry and easy going.  Saw more kangaroo then every before.  Probably more
then 100.  They get very confused when in the lights of the Troopy and don't know what or where to
go.  Had to stop completely 2 or 3 times before the roo hopped across in front us.  Made the Nullabor
highway after 10 PM.  Headed for the Balladonia Roadhouse about 85k.  At about 25k had a blow out
on the rear left.  Was one of the tires that I bought in Adelaide.  Blew out the inside side wall.  Tire is
junk.  Changed the tire in the center on my lane.  Not much traffic.  Can see for miles ahead and the
head lights of the road trains look like a single light.  Made the Balladonia Roadhouse around 11:30
and rented a motel room.







September 11,
Left Balladonia around 10.  Made Norseman and booked into a caravan park and set up camp on
grassy area.  Replaced blowout with spare tire we were carrying and put on Troopy.  Glenda is having
chest aches and pains.  My cold is getting worse.  Went to bed early and night air is cold.











September 12,
Froze last night.  Glenda is having real worries about the chest pain so we decided to go to hospital.  
At hospital nurse who has been a midwife for the last 5 years gave Glenda an ECG and faxed it to a
doctor in Esperance.  There seemed to be some concern with the readings because they were giving
Glenda Nitro tabs and wanted her to be checked at the hospital in Kalgoorlie.  They wanted to fly her
to the hospital in Kalgoorlie via the Flying Doctor for $5000.00.  It would be about 30 minutes quicker
with a doctor.  Glenda was feeling better so we decided to drive the 2 hours.  The cost was $165.00.  
We left about 11 and made the hospital at 2.  Glenda was feeling better but the hospital went ahead
with another ECG and blood tests and realized the nurse at Norseman Hospital had hooked up the
ECG machine incorrectly.  Left the hospital at about 3.  Rented cabin in caravan park for the night.  

September 13
Decided to spend 2nd night and get oil changed.  Got Glenda a better sleeping bag and other
shopping done.  Paid hospital bill ($116) and bought new rear brake pads and changed them on the
concrete slab next to the caravan we were renting.  Went to the Super Pit.  The largest open pit mine
in Australia mining gold.  







September 14,
Left about 9:30 heading to Coolgardie and rescued a blue tongued lizard from the middle of the road
after he/she poised for pictures.  We are about 2 weeks early for wild flowers but the Canola was in
full boom.  Went to Esperance and drove through, continued on to Lake Shaster NR and camped for
the night.  We were the only campers in total darkness and it got cold.  Glenda is feeling sick with this
cold as I am.  Taking colds meds and any other home remedies.  


Sunset and morning camp at Kulgera
Coober Pedy
Faye's underground home
The Opal Bug shop
Stuart Desert Pea
Camp and sunset Glendambo
Goog's Track
Dog fence with 6000 volts
Ceduna caravan park
Bay at Ceduna
Head of the Bight and Southern Right whales
Cliffs of the Australian Bight
Road sign on the Nullabor Highway
Old telegraph
station at Eucla
Emu at telegraph station
Troopy after Balladonia track
Super Pit Kalgoorlie
Saved Blue Tongue
Canola Field
Ocean at Esperance
Wild flowers
Camp at Lake Shaster NP
Emu in wild flowers