Oz Traveler 2004
By Brooks and Glenda Atchison
Updated August 31, 2004
August 2
Left Longreach about 1:30 heading for Winton.  Road is asphalt all the way.  Rough in places from
the road train traffic.  Made Winton about 3:30.  Town is very touristy with a number of opal shops.  
I didn't realize that Winton is the closest to Opalton.  Opalton is where the Queensland boulder
opals come from.  Boulder opals have an iron stone backing on which they have formed.  It is
polished with the opal.  Went to Bladensburg NP for camp and stayed at Bough Shed Hole.  It is
about 15 K out of Winton.  My air conditioner has been acting up since the weather has become
warmer so I scheduled it to be looked at tomorrow at 2 PM.  Winton also has the Waltzing Matilda
Center which explains the history of Banjo Patterson's poem Waltzing Matilda.  Winton was the first
place to have a concert with the poem set to music.  The center is also a museum and art gallery.  
The museum has old vehicles and buggies, a steam locomotive and rail cars, household items, a
bottle collection and medical paraphernalia from the outback hospitals and stations.  The art gallery
is for local artists and displays from local art competition.   Winton is also the dinosaur center of
Queensland.  It has claim to the largest dinosaur fossil found in Australia in 1999.  They are still
finding new sites and because of limited funds continuing the excavation of existing sites is slow.  At
Lake Quarry 115 K from Winton is the only find of a dinosaur stampede in the world.  Some 3000
tracks in a fossilized mud shelf of an ancient lake where a carnivore attacked 2 different smaller
dinosaurs.  One was just a little bigger then a chicken and the other about the size of a Emu.  It is
only partially uncovered (about 1/8th) and extends through the hill it is on.  Again funds are limiting
the effort.
















August 3,
Went to different scenic spots in park.  Skull Hole which is a rock hole in a water coarse with a
natural barrier for the water flow.  It has to go over the top to continue.  Engine Hole was another
rock hole where water collects.  These were on my way back to Winton.  Took the vehicle in a little
early and had the oil changed also.  Went to the Waltzing Matilda Center.  This is a must see with
all it artifacts and history of Australia's National Anthem.  Also went to a fossil and opal display.  
Then to an opal display and outdoor theater that is still in operation.  They let you walk through the
projection room and view the current as well as older projectors.  Picked up the vehicle at 4 and the
air con just needed recharging.  Went back to the NP for the night.








August 4
Went out to Logan Falls, a 20 M drop but wasn't sign posted so I think I found the falls.  This
country is amazing.  The way you will be on what seems to be flat level ground and from nowhere
there is a drop down to a gorge unseen until you are upon it.  Headed for the Lake Quarry and
dinosaur stampede.  Got there a 1:30 and waited till the 2 show.  I was the only one there.  If you
ever get here you should see this.  Alan the guide was very informed and helpful.  We talked until
after 4 when I left for Opalton.  Made Opalton at 6 was dark so continued on to bush camp.







August 5
Returned to Opalton where you can noodle for opals is most of the trailings.  Talked to a very nice
German lady in the store (only real building there).  Owner owns the Sunset Opal Factory in Winton
and has an active claim here.  I was given a mud map to follow and basically got lost.  Came into
some claim at the end of the road which was suppose to take me to the main road.  This is a place
one needs a lot of time to spend in.  Lots of inactive claims and many active ones.  With the right
knowledge and time anyone could find boulder opals.  That is not to say they would be jewelry
quality but non the less they are opals.  Lots of blues and greens in these opals which are not the
most desired colors.  At about 2 headed for The Diamondtina NP.  The road from Cork to Old Cork
is really beat up by road trains.  About half way or 30 k the road trains turn off and the road goes to
a station track and much better.  This is  channel country so once I dropped off the jump up of Lake
Quarry and Opalton the land became flat prairie land.  Mitchell and Flinder grass seem to be the
eatable grasses for the cattle here.  For as far as I could see there was nothing but grassland.  As
you come into the Diamondtina NP there are some rock formations.  Made Diamondtina NP at
around 6.  Was dark and followed another late arrival into the camp grounds.










August 6
The Diamondtina river or channels come together here in the NP where a range forces them
through a gorge.  There are still several channels but they generally have water in them and are
long and narrow.  This promotes the bird life and foliage around the area.  From the top of the
"range" I got a better picture of how this all comes together.  The area in the channel before the
opening is lush green with trees for as far as I could see.  After the opening it is green but you can
see the country opening up in to the sand hills and drying out.  Went back to Janet's Leap Lookout
which is one side of where the water has to pass.  Then I took the 85 K drive through the park to
see the flood plains and sand hill country.  Lots of clay pans.  Shallow dry lakes that one can drive
on.  The road passed through some of these.  Then on to the black soil plains that crack from
drying out and become some of the worst tracks I have driven on.  Very bumpy.  Then it was back
to camp at the other camp grounds, Gum Tree.  Flies are starting to become a real nuisance.  
Sometimes just a few but around water a lot.  They go away as the night air comes in.  I really got to
give it to the people who live here.  This is winter and the flies are not suppose to be a problem but
in summer they become swarms.  Not something I want to see or deal with.  50 or so is enough for
me.  Crawling on your face, in your ears, across your nose and into the corners of your eyes.  Not
to mention landing on you forearms and walking all around.  The more you shoo them away the
more they seem to be determined in landing on you until you get something that swats them.  
Resilient little buggers, even a good swat doesn't break their wings.  But a good splat stops them
dead!  As I was returning from Janet's Leap Lookout this morning I decided to take a picture of a
sign Diamondtina Channels with the digital camera.  First three pictures were out of focus and
blurry.  So I turned the camera off and back on.  Now it has a E45 error and to check the manual.  
The camera has the lens stuck out but turns off and on.  Doesn't look very good.  The manual is
digital so when I camp tonight I'll check.  Camera has been taking pictures with a lot of light in them.
 Turning red sand to tan and flashing when I didn't think it should.











August 7
Well I will not recommend Kodak digital cameras for no other reason then lack of support.  The
digitized manual is hard to follow and only says for any E error to contact Kodak via the Internet.  
Now I will have to get to a city big enough for support or find an Internet site.  Decided to alter my
plans a little.  When I reach Marree at the end of the Birdsville track to head for Adelaide another
700 k out of my way.  If everything goes well I can be in and out to Adelaide in 2 days with a
replaced camera.  Today it is off to Boulia some 180k west.  Arrived around 1:45 and fueled both
tanks.  To early to stop so headed for Birdsville.  Roads have been good gravel or single lane
asphalt so I have made good time.  Got to Bedourie at 4:30 but continuing on to bush camp on
some river.  Trying for the Cacoory Ruins.  Country changes drastically.  Started as flat plains with
Mitchell grass then to clay pans and river crossings with tree and bush lined banks (most are dry,
some with water but not over road), to sand hills then gibber plains with nothing but small rocks and
very little grass,  and finally back to water courses with deep green lined banks and small lakes or
pools from the rivers.  Got to the ruins about 6.  Sun was setting and I noticed a track leading back
to the water course so followed it down to the idyllic spot next to the green aqua water about 1/3 full
for as far as I could see.  I had not seen this color in water before.  Took pictures but noting from
the digital so I can't post any pictures.

No Pix for today

August 8
It is 81k to Birdsville.  Left camp about 10:50.  Made Birdsville at 12:30.  Water supply is from a
boiling artesian bore that is run onto the ground then into a holding pond before being pumped into
the towers.  Birdsville population is about 300 and is the beginning or the end of the Birdsville track
or the next bastion of civilization from the Simpson desert.  I stopped at the information center and
used their Internet service to see if I could get any information from Kodak since the digital manual
directs you to their site. No description of any errors.  In fact the camera I have doesn't seem to
exist.  The CX7530.  I assume it is new and the support is not in place.  Well I left them an email
message as to my complete dissatisfaction with their support and product.  The site says to call
tech support only after I manually went to Kodak's Australian web site.  So now it is definitely
Adelaide to get assistance.  Fueled up and went to the Birdsville Hotel and Pub and had a tall cool
one.  I needed that for all the stress Kodak has put me through.  Not very busy for a Sunday
afternoon.  So finished the beer and left at 2:20 for Marree.  Track was well graded dirt and a
disappointment for being such a good road.  Made Mungerannie at 6:05.  They closed a 6 so I just
pulled into camp grounds and made camp.  Made it right with them in the morning.  Needed shower
so did that.  There water come from a hot artesian bore also.  So had a hot mineral smelling shower.


No Pix for today

August 9
Headed for Marree at 9:30.  Was in Hawker 180k south of Marree by 2:30.  Road was dirt all the
way to Lyndhurst but then 2 lane Asphalt for 70k to Hawker.  Had cell phone service so I called
Kodak.  They said since I was within the 30 day exchange warranty I had to go back to the store.  
This is only 1500k from me I explained.  They wouldn't deal with me.  So I called the store and they
suggested I contact another Kodak store and try to get them to help.  So I continued on to
Adelaide.  Was about 7 and dark when I arrived at the northern end of Adelaide.  Checked into a
Budget Motel and low and behold there was a car stolen from the parking lot, another car and a
new Nissan Patrol had a window broken and items stolen and I had not latched one of my side
windows and they got my video camera and the GPS which was in a cooler bag on the front seat.  
They also took my med bag with bandages, creams, sunburn lotion and manicure items.  Along with
all this I had my passport in the bag and it went with the bag.  The police tried to help about the
passport but I had to contact the consulate in the morning.  

No Pix for today

August 10
Had a very restless nights sleep.  So much for civilization and motels.  I feel much better in the bush
in my vehicle.  The consulate in Sydney wants me to contact the Melbourne consulate because it is
closer.  It is only open from 2 to 4 for phone questions.  Called a couple of Kodak stores to see if
they could replace the camera.  They did not really want to help and did not even have the camera.
Found out from one store that Kodak had pulled out of South Australia and now was in Victoria.  
They were closing down their store and there was only 2 left in Adelaide.  I called Kodak again and I
can not even take the camera to them if I have to go to Melbourne about the passport.  They would
have to send it back to the store it was purchased from.  I explained that the store did not have a
replacement and that by the time the camera was serviced I would be back in the US.  They
suggested I try to get a refund.  This is what I eventually did and shipped the camera back to
Rockhampton.  So much for Kodak.  I won't recommend them to anyone.  Started looking for a HP
dealer and Sony for the video camera.  Left the motel after giving them my cell number in the off
chance the passport was found.  Headed in town to a Sony shop only to find out Australian Sony
records in PAL and not NTSC as the US does.  The stolen video camera will record but will not
playback to a TV properly here.  One little bit of satisfaction for me.  Decided not to buy a video
camera.  Went to caravan park for the night.  Called Melbourne consulate and they didn't seem
concerned.  I was to report to the nearest consulate before I tried to leave for an interview and an
emergency passport good for a year.  I should do this at least 3 days before departure.  I could do
this is Melbourne, Sydney or Perth.  I decided to deal with this then.  I was all ready to go to
Melbourne.

No Pix today

August 11
Asked the people at the caravan park about a HP digital camera dealer and they suggested Harvey
Norman, a big national electronics and furniture store.  For some reason I continued to look for the
HP dealer at the other stores.  Myers, Kmart, small camera shops etc.  Took shower and during
had load of wash going.  Put wash into dryer after shower.  Got numbers of tire dealers and camera
shops.  Two messages on cell phone.  One from a Security and Intelligence officer about the
passport.  Wanted to confirm address and name.  2nd was from motel manager that the passport
was found in the recovered vehicle.  I immediately returned to the motel.  He had my passport and
the cooler bag and some of the medical things and the bag.  I called the police to let them know.  
Returned to the caravan park and packed away my wash.  Then went to the camera shops.  
Nobody sells HP.  Everybody sells Kodak or Canon.   On way back to caravan park decided to get
a Subway sandwich and locked my keys it the car.  Had to call a locksmith and wait for him to open
vehicle.  I have always known trouble comes in threes and I hope this is the last of it.  Brian from the
Security and Intelligence division did call back to confirm that I had recovered my passport.  Off to
the caravan park and bed.

No Pix today

August 12
I headed for a tire store and had them put 4 new tires on since the front 2 had very little tread left.  
At the time they discovered that my front brake pad were gone so they replaced them also.  I kept
the 2 good tires, tubes and liners and put them up in the canvas bag on top.  I hope I am not
getting top heavy.  Finally went to Harvey Norman and low and behold they had a HP 935 camera,
so I purchased it.  Cost the same as the Kodak camera and I think it is a much better camera.    Did
some supply shopping and back to the caravan park.
No Pix today

August 13
After shower this morning it started raining.  I always wanted to see the outback in the wet maybe I'll
get my wish.  It was coming down in big drops and within a matter of minutes there was running
water all around.  Tried to find someone to repair camp stove gas bottle but couldn't find the
business.   Went to Westfield Tea Tree Mall to try to get Pictures (6 rolls) developed.  Kmart was
closing film processing at 1 PM, Kodak wanted $16.95, most expensive so far, Rabbit Photo (Fuji
dealer) wanted $13.95 but couldn't do but 1 roll  a hour.  Maybe Alice photo that did CDs will do
another 20 rolls at $12.95 and 1 free for every 10.  Got frustrated and decided to leave.  Adelaide
hasn't been nice to me.  I need to get out of town. Headed out of town about 4 for a town called
Laura.  Took road that is a more scenic route through the Flinder ranges.  I can't get over how
green the fields are.  They are greener then ones back home.  Made Laura about 5:45 but was
dark and overcast.  Glad I came this way, less traffic and very pretty.  Had time to relax and get my
plans straight.












August 14
Headed for Hawker via Melrose and Wilmington.  Still very little traffic.  Made Quorn at 12:30 and
refueled rear tank.  Was cheaper then Adelaide.  What should have I expected since all the
ongoing.  At Hawker about 2 so headed for Wilpena Pound and the national park.  Got to the park
and to camp you must purchase a yearly pass for $60.00.  Decided not to go into the park.  
Returned to a scenic shortcut back to the road to Leigh Creek and stayed in the caravan park.  
Have been in better.  Kodak formated card takes about 20 seconds to be read by the new HP
camera so reformatted all the cards for the HP.













August 15
Headed for Marree and refuel.  Then onto the Oodnadatta track and trying for William Creek siding.
 Between Marree and William Creek are formations of mound springs created by the underground
water surfacing.   When it contact with the air the minerals are hardened by the sun and the
mounds are formed.  These mounds reach up to 30 meters in height.  There are many extinct and
many still flowing.  It was quite a site walking to the top of some of these mounds to find a pool of
water surrounded by vegetation.  The surrounding area being salt or clay pans.  Also on the track I
passed 2 of the largest inland salt lakes in Australia, Lake Eyre North and South.  The track follows
most of the Old Ghan Railroad and has many sidings.  Some have been restored others have what
remains.  Made it as far as Coward Springs.  A nice oasis in the middle of nowhere with palms.  Has
a warm spa made from old railroad sleepers.  Out house and the shower facility are made from the
same old sleepers.  Shower has a rocket that you "fire" up to heat the water to have a warm
shower.  I stayed under some sort of "desert oak".  Had long needles but was 4 or 5 trees from the
same root system spreading 20 to 30 feet to make wonderful shade.  Have pictures below.


Longreach Stockman's
Hall of Fame
Winton Hotel
Engine Hole
Skull Hole
Opalton Store
Lake Quarry Dinosaur tracks
View from Janet's
Leap Lookout
Laura Caravan Park
Ruins on way to Laura
Storm clouds of the Flinders
Gum Tree in the Flinders
Sunset over the Flinders
Leigh Creek Coal Mine
Marree Hotel
Truck used on
mail runs in
times past.
Leaving Marree
Lake Eyre South
seen from track
Curdimurka Siding
Blanches Cup
Mound Spring
The Bubbler
belching
Coward Springs
Campsite
Sunset from site
The Spa
Dray used  to carry freight
 to and from Winton
From Waltizing Matilda Museum
Bough Shed sunset
Water hole near Logan Falls
Noodle area
at Opalton
Building protecting
tracks at Lake Quarry
Rock outcrops entering Diamondtina NP
Hunter Gorge
Pelicans at Hunter Gorge
Looking across gorge from Janet's
Leap where Diamondtina is channeled
Blitz Ford made in Canada
Water Drilling Rig
Steam Engine
Buggy from station
Sunset Opal Factory