with no time to work on it. Traveling many kilometers and just can't seem to find the time.
July 2
Went to Rainbow Valley at sundown. Well worth the time. Was going to camp there but no spaces
were available so decided to go to the Owen Springs track and bush camp. Found a camp site after
dark. Moon was out almost full.
July 3
Continued on to Owen Springs homestead and then back to Alice. Fueled up and headed out on the
Ross River Road. Turned on the Todd River HS road. Went to N'dhala Gorge. Was getting dark as I
arrived. Only one other vehicle there and they invited me to dinner. I joined them and after dinner we
sat around their camp fire and yarned over a couple of beers. Went to bed about 9:30.
July 4
As I hiked into the gorge the couple left for Alice. After returning to the camping area there was a
German couple there. The man asked me about helping him bleed his brakes. After he explained
what was happening I told him he needed a mechanic to look at the problem. He had to pump the
peddle 2 or 3 times to get brakes. I took my leave and they started hiking the gorge. I headed to
Ruby Gap gorge. Made Artunga by 1, the first gold mining community in the Northern Territory. Took
the self guided tour and walks. Climb into some of the mines. Left about 2:45 for Ruby Gap. Was
rough going at times. Had to travel down the river sand for about 2 k. Was dry and slow going in 4
WD.
July 5
Returned to main road and took short cut to the Plenty Highway. Went through some hilly country and
took over 2.5 hours. Not much of a short cut but very pretty country. Bushed camped off Plenty
Highway in road pit area. Was going to make fire but was pretty windy so decided to use gas stove.
July 6
Decided to cook up the veggies. Boiled them up and now all I need is to do is add stock and meat to
have a stew. Found the oil filler cap laying on the intake manifold. Had been there since Alice when I
had the oil changed. So much for PROFESSIONAL SERVICE. Put rubber under battery clamps.
Clamps were wearing into the battery case. Started about 1 pm. The Plenty Highway was rough.
Made Tobermorey about 4:45. Fueled up and headed for Urandangi. Bush camped off road about
50 meters.
July 7
Headed for Urandangi at 9. Decided to go to Mt Isa through Dajarra. Went through some very pretty
country. Got to Mt Isa after 4 and caravan parks were full. Ended up staying in a motel.
July 8
Left Mt Isa after going to lookouts and trying to get underground tour. All were booked so decided to
head for Camooweal. About 50 k from Camooweal turned to recently graded fire road and made
camp. Was about 4 so had plenty of day light. Was able to cook a dinner tonight.
July 9
Headed for Camooweal and got there about 11. Little town, kind of quaint. Turned north headed for
Lawn Hill NP. Area began to have hills and open grass lands. Road was a little rough. Arrived at
Lawn Hills about 4 and looked to camp. Note on ranger office said they were understaffed and there
were no walk ins. So took a 1.5 k hike to the falls then to a look out and back to the car park. Was
getting on 6 now. Had about 1/2 hour of light left so headed for Adels Grove, a caravan park. Decide
to continue on and found a road that followed a fence line for about 2 k and bush camped.
July 10
Headed for Gregory Downs (70k) and then on to Burketown. On way to Burketown saw snake that I
believe was an Inland Tiapan. Not to mess with. Got only photos on the video camera. He/she was
gone by the time I got the digital camera out. Made Burketown around 2 and decide to try for
Normanton and refuel. On way stopped to help a bloke that had blown his 2nd spare. He and his two
children were stranded. Was going to loan him one of my spares and follow him when a mate of his
stopped and offered his last spare. I followed them into Normanton just in case. From Normanton
went to Karumba, the only city that you can get to the Gulf of Carpentaria. Bought some Barri and
chips to have for dinner. Caravan parks were packed so decide to head to the bush. I miss the open
desert country of Western Australia where bush camping is a given. Stopped on the Gilbert River for
the night. I am now on the Burke Development Road.
July 11
Road has been good except for about 20k of pot holes and bulldust. Was going to bush camp at the
Lynd River but didn't look to appealing. Continued to the Welsh River. Not much better but was
getting to be about 4 so decided to stop. Lots of cattle on all the stations and around the roads.
Probably because of the ponds built to hold the water for them all along the development.
July 12
Heading for Chillagoe today. About 130k. Tours of the limestone caves are by bookings so just went
out to see and took some photos. Went to the old copper smelter and took photos. Headed for Mt
Surprise and fueled up. Then on to Georgetown and to Forsayth to camp. Caravan park was full so
continued on to Einaslegh. Was getting dark so decide to bush camp. Found siding of old road and
pulled down it about a kilometer and setup camp. Was warm tonight before bed.
July 13
Went through Einaslegh on my way to Mt Garnet. Road was single lane asphalt and good. Made
good time. Fueled in Mt Garnet and then headed south on the Graham Lexton Morning Drive for the
Herbert River. Turned to dirt after about 30k. After the Herbert River which was a easy crossing the
road turned to a track through some dense forest. Was climbing hills and dropping in to the valleys
between. Continued onto Blencoe Falls and out to the look out. Very impressive. Headed for the
camp site on Blencoe creek. Was the only one there about 1k from the road.
July 14
Today went to other side of Blencoe Falls, right to the top and took photos. As I was headed down the
range to Cardwell had some scenic vantage points. Reached Cardwell and was a tourist town so
decided to head for Ingham. Now on main road north and south so travel was fast and easy. In cane
country. Ingham has 2 motels and a caravan park somewhere. Could not find it so spent night in
motel. This side of the continent is not like the other with bush camps.
July 15
Fueled up. Prices are the best so far. 90 to 92 cents per liter. With Cole's or Woolworth's discount of
4 cents per liter, fueling up is reasonable. Went to Wallaman Falls. Wallaman falls is a 240 meter
drop or about 750 feet. Had fog but cleared for a while. Took photos and then continued on to Mt
Fox a volcanic crater. Didn't feel up to the 300 to 400 foot hike up a 45 degree hill so just took
pictures from bottom. Headed for The Lynd and the Oasis caravan park for the night.
July 16
Headed for Porcupine gorge on the Hughenden Development road. Was good on the asphalt parts
but very rough on the gravel. Was going to stay at Porcupine gorge but you needed bookings via the
web. Only 2 or 3 campers there but decide to press on. Found caravan park at Charter Towers.
This is a gold mining town with tunnels under the city. Some go down 2000 feet. I was told that once a
year they allow visitors to travel in a Troopie down the shaft of one of the mines. This would be a town
to spend some time in, possibly going down in some of the old mines. Overheard an old timer telling
of his life here and that the smelter tower was blown up by the Yanks in WWII because it was in the
flight path of the bombers landing field. Took photos from top of first mine claim.
July 17
Today goal is Burdekin falls and dam. Decide to take tour of Venus Battery in Charter Towers. An
ore stamper for the non company claims. Was very interesting. A battery or stamper is a device that
crushes gold ore into small stones and power. It uses a hard piston like foot that is dropped or
stamped on the gold bearing ore. The Venus Battery used 7 five head stampers. To start and stop
the stampers a belt was slipped onto a turning roller or removed from it. Once the steam boiler was
started the main shaft throughout the building was turning and was not stopped unless the boiler was
shut down. The gold is removed from the power with mercury and water. In 1994 a company came
through and only treated the waste material that was thought to have no gold in it and recovered over
$6,000,000 in gold. This was processing the many tons of waste material from previous workings from
the Venus Battery. I was treated to an individual tour and learned a lot about those who worked in this
7 5 head battery stamper. The noise must have been unbearable. The fact of handling mercury for
the recovery of gold was unthinkable or working in the cyanide ponds. No wonder the average age of
the workers was around 35 for death. All attributed to alcoholism, because of liver damage. About a
week previous to my tour a creek was cleaned on the site. Unknown to the locals a permanent spring
was uncovered and water was flowing where for many years before no water had flowed during the
winter. After checking the past information of the site they ran across references of the permanent
water that was used for the battery. At about 3 headed for Burdekin falls and Lake Dalrymple. Lake
Dalrymple has 7 time the water of Sydney harbour. Reached caravan park around 5 was one of the
nicest place I have stayed. Dam and lake were impressive. Must be seen to appreciate. Road
crosses the spillway but no water was flowing.
July 18
Left Caravan park about 9. One of the best I have stayed in. Only cost 5 dollars for night and shower
in morning. Crossed spill way of dam and stopped to take pictures. Accidentally turned digital camera
on in case and lens ratcheted as it came out. It was in a telephoto setting so decided to try and fix it.
Wrong, now doesn't work at all. Needs to be replaced. I am very upset and set off for Clermont at
about 2. Road was good station tracks with minor problems. Should have bushed camped. Got to
Clermont after 7. Was dark and couldn't find caravan park. Ended up in motel.
July 19
Headed for Rockhampton on good asphalt roads. I am in coal country with trains up to a mile long
carrying coal to the port. Arrived in Rocky at 2. Booked into a motel again and started looking for a
digital camera replacement. Tires were wearing on the rear so swapped them to the front, Called Vic
B. who I met in 2001 with my dad when he returned to find any of the family members he knew from his
tour in Australia during WWII. Arrange to have dinner with Vic and his wife Val tomorrow. Went to
Sizzler for dinner.
July 20
Shopped for camera. Ended up buying a Kodak 7530 from a Kodak store. Seems to match my
broken HP. Met Vic at 4:30 and went to his home for Dinner. Vic was a breath of fresh air in an
otherwise dismal last few days. His memory of being a boy of 10 during the US troop occupation of
Rocky in late 1941 was amazing. His knowledge of the time and people is amazing. I hope he finds a
way to record all that he knows. His wife Val was just as interesting with her childhood in Ilfracrombe
and life with a father that was a drover but took up share cropping. She is writing her memories when
she finds the time. But, isn't that the problem. Just as my dad had memories of this area and time but
didn't find the time to record any of it. Vic took me back to the motel about 10 with the plan of me
showing up at his place in the morning.
July 21
Got to Vic's about 11. We then took a mate of his to his doctor and Vic took me around to the
Caravan Parks returning to pick up his mate and then to Mt Andrew overlooking Rocky. His
knowledge and information about the town, local politics past and present is just inspiring. Mt Andrew
has some very good views. Returned to Vic's for a beer and lunch and we talked into the afternoon.
He loaned me some WWII magazines with newspapers of the articles in the early 1940's. Decided to
spend night at the South side Caravan park. Got there about 5.
July 22
Left park about 9. Decided to go back to Mt Andrews for some pictures. Since I didn't have a picture
of Vic and Val for my mum (he called my mother when he got word about dad passing away). I called
him and asked if I could get his picture. Of course he said yes. I returned and took the pictures. He
had a picture of his sister that my dad knew in 1942 and some old Australian money he gave me. His
antiques are amazing. A working gramophone, collection of Avon perfume from early 1900. Not just
the bottles (six shooter, train, truck etc) that it came in but still in their packaging and the perfume.
Old cattle bells, wagon cart wheels and axles, train station lights and it goes on and on. We talked
into late afternoon so they graciously offer me dinner and a drive way to camp in. After dinner he
showed home movies of train trips his eldest son was working on before the state sold the rights to a
private company to run. Also, movies of running a truck down the rails in flood clearing logs from the
bridges and checking the tracks. Then he put on a tape of a $55 million train derailment of a coal
train. No one was hurt but only 16 cars were undamaged of the 100 or so. I could listen to him and
his past unendingly. This is one person that should be recorded when he speaks.
July 23
Had film developed today. Took till 1. Then stocked up and started out but decided to go back and
stay in Rocky since it was after 4 when I finally got on my way.
July 24
Finally got out of Rocky this morning heading for Blackdown Tablelands NP. Got there at 1 and
traveled around for over 2 hours. Camping was by booking only via the web so decided to try to get
as close to Carnarvon Gorge Mt Moffatt area as I can. Bushed camped about 20k from Injune.
July 25
Made it to Mt Moffatt area of Carnarvon Gorge NP. Planned to stay 2 nights since it was going on 4
when arrived. Setup camp at Rotary Top shed. Was by myself so cooked up my veg's and had nice
quiet evening. Didn't bring any wood so didn't have fire.
July 26
Went to top of Mt Moffatt and excellent views, then on to the head waters of Carnarvon creek. Then
around to the sandstone sites. At 3 went out of park to collect fire wood and then back in to the site of
the original homestead that was destroyed by a bush fire in 1902 but now is a campsite. Was again
all by myself. Had a camp fire tonight and a billy of tea. During the night it rained enough to suppress
the dust but not to stop travel.
July 27
Finished sites, The Tombs where the Aboriginals entombed their deceased in bark and stuck them in
sandstone caves. Long since vandalized. The Chimneys and the Cathedral then headed out for
Mitchell. Road was a one lane asphalt and good. Made Mitchell at 4:45 decided to go to Charleville.
Reached Charleville late and after dark.
July 28
Headed for Idalia NP all on asphalt roads and bush camping in park. Only one other vehicle. Had
camp fire and sat by fire with my tea till dark. Long drive into park 63k.
July 29
Up and going to IsIsford after going to Emmet Pocket Lookout and Rainbow Gorge. Isisford is on
thethe Barcoo river one of the Channel Country rivers that in flood fan out into all the lowland
channels to make the area impassable. Not only the streams make it impassable but also the marsh
like ground of black soil that becomes so soft and boggy nothing moves until it drys out. Made
Welford NP and spent night on the muddy Barcoo. Was all by myself.
July 30
Went on the Desert drive in Welford NP. Was just like being back in WA with the sand ridges and
scrub. Came out on the main road and headed for Lochern NP. Got there about 3 and decided to go
on the forest drive through the different type of forest trees that are there. It is amazing to see the
country side change so much in 30k. From Mulga scrub to gum trees and then to Mitchell grass
plains. Went to the Broadwater camp site and was along again. This time I was on the Thomson
River another in the Channel Country. Just like the Barcoo camp site was on a large body of water
within the river banks as it widened out. If the surrounding soil wasn't so cracked and dry and didn't
soak up all moisture that contacts it there would probably be a large lake in this area.
July 31
Headed for Longreach today. Went via the station track from the Lochern NP. Made Longreach at 2.
Called home and decided to go to Ilfracrombe and see the outdoor museum display of old farm
equipment. Was a site to see. Graders, tractors, trucks, home items, plows, thatchers and anything
else needed on these outback stations. Even a well drilling machine of the late 1800s that it's deepest
well was over 1100 feet. Spent night in caravan park in Ilfracrombe. At night the park has a get
together where you can cook your dinner on their BBQ. They serve tea and damper and the owners
have everyone introduce themselves and where they are from. As time goes on the jokes start flying
and there is a friendly exchange between the states as to who is best or can be put down the most.
Was a wonderful change to bush camping alone.
August 1
Returned to Longreach and the Stockman's Hall of Fame. This is a must see. It shows the beginning
of Australia from 150 million years ago to the invasion of the Europeans and the results of their
influence. Then the stockmen and the amazing strides they accomplished to bring Australia to what it
is today.
August 2
Booked into a motel. Worked on the web page and finally posted it.
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